The Arduinome eXperimenter’s Case is available here:

For Adobe Illustrator here in .svg format.

And for Inkscape users, I’ve set up an .svg  file that’s better formatted here

The file is set up for laser cutting at ponoko.com using 3mm acrylic. Please note, the case is designed for use with the Sparkfun PCBs and Button Pads.

NOTE: There are extra instructions embedded in the .svg file. You must open the file in either inkscape or illustrator and take a look at the documentation. It is not meant to be sent directly to your cutter. In particular, there are a few optional layers that you may want to delete before cutting.

If you need to build an Arduinome please take a look here.

Images for each step will be coming soon; for now, we only have renderings of the finished case.

Tools

  • Screwdriver
  • Pliers or Wrench

Materials Required

  • 1 Set of Arduinome parts using Sparkfun Button Pads
  • 1 Set of AX Case parts laser cut
  • 5  1.5 inch standoffs (5x 1inch and 5x .5 inch standoffs work too!)
  • 20 Philips head screws 4-40 x 3/4″ long
  • 24 Nuts 4-40

Optional Materials

  • If you’re using 1 inch and .5 inch standoffs, red lock-tite will be useful for securing them together
  • Glue
  • Magnets

Assembly Instructions:

  1. Attach arduinome logic to the bottom plate using 4 of the philips head screws. It’s easier to work with the arduinome logic boards if they are not attached to the button pad assembly.
  2. Secure 5 stand-offs into the bottom plate of the case using 5 nuts. Place each stand-off into a corner hole and one stand-off in the middle hole.
  3. Take the faceplate with the holes and place it in the proper place ontop of the stand-offs. Look through the hole in the middle and remember or mark which hole on the lower faceplate matches the stand-off.Important: Take the time and make sure you know which side of the faceplate is the top and which side is the bottom. This is very important, slightly confusing, and very frustrating if you get it wrong. A good way to do this is to assemble the sides of the case and make sure all the notches and holes match up with the faceplate.
  4. Attach arduinome button pad assembly (both rubber and pcb) to the bottom faceplate using 10 of the philips head screws and 11 nuts. The bottom faceplate is the one with the screw holes. Place the screws in the holes marked with Xs in the image below.jFor the 2 middle holes, place a screw in the hole that does NOT match with the center stand-off on the bottom. Secure this screw with a nut as well. Only one of these two middle holes should have a screw in it for now.
  5. At this point, you should have 2 groups. First, the faceplate, rubber button pad, and button pad pcb assembly; let’s call this the top assembly. Second, the arduinome, bottom plate, and stand-offs; let’s call this the bottom assembly.
  6. Attach the ribbon cables that are used to link the top assembly and the bottom assembly.
  7. Place the top assembly ontop of the bottom assembly and align it so that the notches will fit with the side walls.
  8. Use 1 philips head screw to secure the top assembly to the center stand0ff of the bottom assembly.
  9. Take the upper faceplate and put the last 4 philips head screws into the 4 corner holes of the upper faceplate. tighten a nut onto each of these screws. Don’t over-tighten them! they should still turn freely but not have wiggle room.
  10. Place the upper faceplate onto the top of the lower faceplate (attached to the  rest of the case). Screw the 4 corners into the lower faceplate assembly half way.
  11. Place the side-walls into place.
  12. Tighten the top 4 corners until the side walls are snug but not overly tight. You don’t want to crack the acrylic!!